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The Cheese-Making Process

Glenn Broadbent • November 13, 2024

The Cheese-Making Process: From Ingredients to Aging

A cow is standing next to a can of milk.

Cheese-making is an ancient art that has been refined over centuries to produce a vast array of flavours, textures, and varieties.


At its core, cheese-making involves transforming milk into a preserved and flavourful product by curdling, separating, and aging the milk solids. While the process may vary depending on the cheese type, certain key ingredients and foundational steps remain consistent.


Let's look into the essentials of cheese-making, from the fundamental ingredients to the meticulous steps involved and the aging techniques that create a rich diversity of cheeses.

Key Ingredients in Cheese


Cheese is remarkably simple in composition, with just four main ingredients forming its foundation: milk, salt, starter culture, and rennet.


Each of these plays a unique role, contributing to the taste, texture, and structure of the final product.

  • Milk: Milk is the primary ingredient in cheese, and its type—whether cow, goat, sheep, or buffalo—impacts the cheese’s flavour, texture, and nutritional profile. The quality of milk, including factors like freshness, fat content, and seasonality, directly affects the cheese’s flavor. Cheesemakers often choose milk from specific animals or regions to achieve distinct flavour characteristics, such as the rich, creamy texture of buffalo milk used in Mozzarella di Bufala.
  • Salt: Salt is essential for seasoning cheese, but it also plays a crucial role in preserving it. Salt slows bacterial activity, controls moisture levels, and prevents spoilage. In addition to these preservative qualities, salt contributes to the flavor profile and helps with the formation of the cheese rind, as seen in hard cheeses like Parmesan.
  • Starter Culture: Starter cultures are beneficial bacteria added to milk to initiate fermentation, transforming lactose (milk sugar) into lactic acid. This acidification is critical for creating curds and gives cheese its tangy taste. Different bacteria strains produce varying flavours and textures, which is why cheeses like Swiss and Cheddar have distinct tastes. For example, Swiss cheese uses Propionibacterium bacteria, which create carbon dioxide bubbles that result in its iconic holes.
  • Rennet: Rennet, a coagulant enzyme traditionally sourced from the stomach lining of ruminant animals, is used to curdle milk, separating it into solid curds and liquid whey. The enzyme acts on the milk proteins, causing them to coagulate. Today, rennet can be derived from microbial or plant sources as well, making vegetarian-friendly cheeses more accessible.
A person is pouring cheese curds into a container with a hose.

Steps in Cheese-Making

The cheese-making process involves a series of carefully managed steps that transform milk into curds and ultimately into cheese.


Each step can be adjusted to produce a unique cheese, highlighting the versatility and artistry of cheese-making.


  • Curdling: In the first step, milk is warmed and starter cultures are added, initiating acidification. Once the milk reaches the desired acidity, rennet is added to coagulate the milk, forming a gel-like structure. After a period, the curds firm up, and the milk separates into curds (solids) and whey (liquid).
  • Cutting the Curds: Once the curds are formed, they are cut into small pieces to release whey. The size of the cuts determines the moisture content of the cheese: smaller cuts result in firmer cheeses like Parmesan, while larger cuts are used for softer cheeses like Brie. Cutting also affects the cheese’s texture, as it helps control the moisture and creates a more consistent curd structure.
  • Heating and Stirring: The curds are then gently heated and stirred, which further encourages the release of whey. The temperature and duration of this step vary depending on the cheese type. Higher temperatures result in drier, firmer cheeses, while lower temperatures retain more moisture, creating softer cheeses. For example, Mozzarella is heated to a specific temperature that allows it to stretch, giving it its signature texture.
  • Draining the Whey: Once the curds reach the desired texture, the whey is drained away. This is done by pouring off the liquid or by pressing the curds, depending on the cheese. Soft cheeses may be lightly pressed or even left unpressed, while hard cheeses are often heavily pressed to expel as much whey as possible.
  • Moulding and Pressing: The curds are then placed into molds, which give the cheese its shape. For harder cheeses, pressing is essential to remove any remaining whey and create a firm texture. The molds may have specific shapes that are characteristic of certain cheese types, like the cylindrical form of traditional Cheddar.
  • Salting: Salt is added either by directly sprinkling it onto the curds, rubbing it on the exterior, or submerging the cheese in a salt brine. Salt not only adds flavour but also draws out moisture, firms the curds, and prevents the growth of unwanted bacteria.
  • Aging (Affinage): Aging, or affinage, is the final step in cheese-making, where cheeses are placed in specific environments to develop their flavours and textures over time. This step can last anywhere from days to years, with longer aging periods creating firmer textures and more intense flavours. The environment—temperature, humidity, and airflow—during aging is carefully controlled, with some cheeses aged in caves to develop distinct characteristics.

Aging and Maturation


Aging is where cheese transforms into its final form, and this period is critical to its taste and texture.


During aging, enzymes and bacteria continue to break down fats and proteins, creating the unique flavours associated with each cheese type.


Young Cheeses:

Fresh, Mild, and Highly Perishable

Fresh, or "young," cheeses are known for their mild, creamy flavours and soft textures.


Unlike aged cheeses, young cheeses are typically consumed within days or weeks of production and require minimal processing, often bypassing the lengthy aging or ripening periods that other cheeses undergo. These cheeses retain a high moisture content, which gives them their soft, pliable, and creamy consistency and makes them prone to spoilage if not refrigerated and consumed quickly.


Due to their short shelf life and delicate flavours, young cheeses are often used to enhance both savory and sweet dishes without overpowering other ingredients.


Here are some of the most well-known types of young cheeses and their unique qualities:

Ricotta

Ricotta is a soft, spreadable Italian cheese made from the whey left over from other cheese-making processes, often from cheeses like Mozzarella or Pecorino. Unlike many cheeses, Ricotta is not made from whole milk curds but rather from the remaining whey proteins that coagulate when reheated. This process gives Ricotta a very fine, grainy texture and a light, delicate flavour.

Texture and Flavour: Ricotta has a smooth, creamy consistency with a mildly sweet, milky taste. Its soft, spreadable texture makes it ideal for both savory and sweet dishes.

Uses: Ricotta is incredibly versatile and widely used in Italian cuisine. It’s a key ingredient in dishes like lasagna, stuffed pastas (e.g., ravioli, cannelloni), and desserts such as cannoli and cheesecake. Ricotta can also be enjoyed on toast with honey or fruit for a light, fresh snack.


Mozzarella

Mozzarella is a traditional Italian cheese originating from the southern region of Campania.

It’s best known in its fresh form, often made from buffalo milk (Mozzarella di Bufala) or cow’s milk. Mozzarella is unique for its high moisture content and elasticity, which gives it the classic stretch when melted.

Texture and Flavour: Fresh Mozzarella has a soft, slightly elastic texture that melts easily. Its flavour is mild, creamy, and slightly tangy, with a delicate milky freshness. When sliced, it releases a small amount of milky liquid, a hallmark of its freshness.

Uses: Mozzarella is a quintessential cheese for Italian dishes like pizza and Caprese salad. It’s prized for its melting qualities, making it perfect for baked dishes, pasta bakes, and grilled sandwiches. Fresh Mozzarella is also often served on its own with tomatoes, basil, and olive oil in a classic insalata caprese.


Cottage Cheese

Cottage cheese is a fresh, lumpy cheese with a mild flavour that is popular as a health food due to its high protein content and low-fat variations. It’s made by draining curds without pressing them, resulting in a soft, loose texture. Cottage cheese is available in various fat levels and can be found with small or large curds.

Texture and Flavour: Cottage cheese has a unique, chunky texture, with soft, slightly chewy curds surrounded by a thin layer of liquid. The flavour is mild and fresh, with a subtle tang from the fermentation process.

Uses: Cottage cheese is often enjoyed on its own or paired with fresh fruits, nuts, or honey for a light breakfast or snack. It’s also used as a protein-rich addition to smoothies, salads, and dips, and it can be substituted for ricotta in certain recipes for a lighter option.

Other Notable Young Cheeses

Mascarpone: An Italian cream cheese known for its rich, buttery texture and mildly sweet flavor, Mascarpone is often used in desserts like tiramisu and adds creaminess to sauces.

Queso Fresco: A Mexican cheese that’s soft, crumbly, and mildly tangy, Queso Fresco is used in traditional Mexican dishes like tacos, enchiladas, and salads. It doesn’t melt well but adds a fresh, slightly salty flavor.

Cream Cheese: Known for its smooth, spreadable texture, cream cheese is popular worldwide in both sweet and savory applications, from bagels and cheesecakes to sauces and dips.


Characteristics and Appeal of Young Cheeses

Young cheeses stand out for their simplicity and lightness, making them ideal for enhancing the flavours of other ingredients rather than dominating them. They’re perfect for fresh, vibrant dishes where a heavy, aged cheese would be overpowering. Additionally, many young cheeses are low in fat and calories compared to aged cheeses, making them appealing to health-conscious consumers. Because of their mild flavour profiles, young cheeses are also popular among those new to cheese tasting, offering an accessible entry point into the world of cheese appreciation.


Storage and Preservation

Due to their high moisture content and minimal aging, young cheeses are highly perishable.

They need to be kept refrigerated and are best consumed soon after purchase. Many fresh cheeses are sold in brine or whey to help maintain their moisture, but they still have a short shelf life. For this reason, many cheese connoisseurs and chefs prefer to purchase these cheeses fresh, ideally within a day or two of intended use.


Aged Cheeses:

Cheeses aged for months to years, like Cheddar, Parmesan, and Gouda, develop stronger flavours and firmer textures. Aging allows for complex chemical reactions, where proteins break down into amino acids, creating savory and nutty flavours. As they age, these cheeses lose moisture, becoming harder and crumblier, with an intense taste that can range from sharp to sweet, depending on the type.

Blue Cheeses:

Blue cheeses, like Roquefort, Stilton, and Gorgonzola, are unique in that they are injected or exposed to specific moulds, such as Penicillium roqueforti, during aging. This creates the distinctive blue or green veins and gives blue cheese its bold, tangy flavour and pungent aroma. Blue cheeses are usually aged for several months in cool, humid environments, which foster mould growth and add to their complex taste.

Washed-Rind Cheeses:

Washed-rind cheeses, like Munster and Taleggio, are regularly washed with a saltwater solution or other liquids like wine or beer during aging. This washing promotes the growth of bacteria on the cheese rind, resulting in a sticky, reddish-orange exterior and a strong, often pungent aroma. The interior remains soft and creamy, with a flavour that balances earthy and savory notes.

Bloomy-Rind Cheeses:

Soft-ripened cheeses, such as Brie and Camembert, develop a white, edible rind due to the introduction of specific moulds during aging. These cheeses are typically aged for shorter periods and have a soft, creamy interior with a mild, buttery flavour.

The cheese-making process is a delicate balance of science and artistry.


From carefully selected ingredients to meticulous aging methods, each step is crucial in shaping the final product. The variations in technique, milk type, bacteria, and aging conditions allow for an extraordinary diversity of cheeses, each with its own story and character.


Whether it’s a fresh mozzarella or a complex, aged blue cheese, every cheese represents a unique blend of tradition, flavor, and craftsmanship that has made it a cherished food for centuries.

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